1987 Chevy 4×4 For Sale Craigslist: Your Guide to Finding a Classic Squarebody typestruckssale.com
The roar of a V8, the iconic lines of a boxy silhouette, and the unmistakable ruggedness that defined an era – these are the hallmarks of the 1987 Chevy 4×4. As the final iteration of the beloved "Squarebody" generation, the 1987 models hold a special place in the hearts of truck enthusiasts and collectors alike. They represent the perfect blend of classic aesthetics with the improved reliability of Throttle Body Injection (TBI) fuel systems, making them highly sought after. If you’re on the hunt for one of these automotive legends, Craigslist often serves as an invaluable, albeit sometimes challenging, marketplace. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about navigating "1987 Chevy 4×4 For Sale Craigslist" listings, from searching effectively to making a smart purchase.
The Enduring Appeal of the 1987 Chevy 4×4
1987 Chevy 4×4 For Sale Craigslist: Your Guide to Finding a Classic Squarebody
The 1987 Chevy 4×4, encompassing models like the K10, K20, K30 pickups, and the full-size Blazer and Suburban, stands out for several compelling reasons. Its "Squarebody" design, produced from 1973 to 1987, is a timeless testament to American truck engineering – simple, robust, and undeniably cool. What makes the ’87 model particularly desirable is its unique position as the last year of this iconic body style, coupled with the introduction of TBI on the 5.7L (350 cubic inch) V8 engine. This fuel injection system offered better cold starts, improved fuel efficiency (compared to carbureted predecessors), and enhanced reliability, without sacrificing the raw power and torque these trucks are known for.
Beyond the technical specifications, the 1987 Chevy 4×4 offers unparalleled versatility. Whether you’re looking for a dependable workhorse, a capable off-road rig, a charming daily driver, or a rewarding restoration project, these trucks fit the bill. Their robust frames, solid axles, and straightforward mechanicals make them relatively easy to work on, and the aftermarket support is immense, ensuring parts and upgrades are readily available. This blend of classic aesthetics, practical reliability, and customization potential fuels the consistent demand for these vintage machines on platforms like Craigslist.
Craigslist, with its local focus and direct seller-to-buyer interaction, can be a goldmine for classic truck enthusiasts. However, it requires a strategic approach to sift through the vast number of listings.
How to Search Effectively:
- Keywords are Key: Don’t just type "1987 Chevy 4×4." Expand your search terms to include "K10," "K20," "K30," "Chevy Squarebody," "Chevy Truck," "Blazer," and "Suburban." Sometimes sellers don’t list the exact year or model correctly.
- Broaden Your Search Radius: While local is convenient, expanding your search to neighboring cities, states, or even regions can significantly increase your options. The perfect truck might be a few hours’ drive away.
- Utilize Price Filters Wisely: Set a realistic price range. While everyone wants a steal, an overly low price often indicates significant issues. Conversely, don’t dismiss slightly higher-priced listings if they promise better condition or recent work.
- Monitor Posting Age: Check for new listings frequently. The best deals often go quickly. However, don’t ignore older postings; sometimes a seller is simply waiting for the right buyer or is more open to negotiation after some time.
Decoding the Listings:
- Read Descriptions Thoroughly: Look for details about the engine (e.g., "original 350," "454 swap"), transmission (automatic/manual), mileage (if stated), and any known issues or recent repairs. Descriptions that are vague or overly brief can be a red flag.
- Scrutinize Photos: This is crucial. Look for multiple angles, including exterior (all sides), interior, engine bay, undercarriage, and close-ups of potential rust spots or damage. High-quality, detailed photos indicate a seller who is proud of their vehicle and has nothing to hide. Low-resolution, few, or generic photos should raise suspicion.
- Identify Red Flags:
- "No Title" or "Bill of Sale Only": Unless you are an experienced buyer familiar with your state’s laws regarding title acquisition for old vehicles, this is often a deal-breaker. It can lead to significant legal headaches.
- Overly Cheap Price: If the price seems too good to be true for a running, driving ’87 4×4, it almost certainly is. Expect hidden problems.
- Vague or Evasive Communication: If the seller is reluctant to answer questions, provide more photos, or allow an inspection, move on.
- Excessive Modifications Without Details: While modifications can be cool, ensure they are professionally done and well-documented. Shady mods can hide underlying issues.
What to Inspect Before You Buy (A Buyer’s Guide)
Once you’ve found a promising listing, it’s time for the real work: a thorough inspection. Ideally, bring a knowledgeable friend or mechanic with you.
1. Rust: The Silent Killer
- Frame: Inspect the entire frame for excessive surface rust, flaking, or, worse, rot. Pay close attention to areas around the suspension mounts and body mounts.
- Body Panels: Common rust spots include rocker panels, cab corners (behind the doors), wheel wells, bed floors, and fenders. Check under the carpet in the cab for floor pan rust.
- Underbody Components: Examine brake lines, fuel lines, and exhaust for severe corrosion.
2. Drivetrain
- Engine:
- Visual Inspection: Look for oil leaks (valve covers, oil pan, rear main seal), coolant leaks, and any unusual modifications. Check fluid levels and condition (oil, coolant, power steering).
- Starting: Listen for unusual noises (knocks, ticks, squeals). Pay attention to how it starts, especially cold. For TBI engines, check for smooth idle.
- Exhaust Smoke: Blue smoke indicates burning oil, black smoke is rich fuel mixture, white smoke (especially sweet-smelling) can indicate burning coolant.
- Transmission:
- Automatic: Check fluid color and smell (should be red, not brown or burnt). During a test drive, ensure shifts are smooth, without harsh clunks or slips.
- Manual: Check clutch pedal feel (should engage smoothly, not too high or too low). Listen for grinding when shifting gears.
- Transfer Case: Check for leaks. Test the 4×4 engagement (high and low range) during the test drive.
- Axles: Look for fluid leaks around the differential covers and axle seals. Listen for humming or clunking noises from the differentials during the test drive.
3. Suspension & Steering
- Components: Look for worn bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and shock absorbers.
- Steering Play: With the truck off, turn the steering wheel back and forth. Excessive play before the wheels move indicates worn steering components.
- Test Drive: Listen for clunks, rattles, or squeaks over bumps. The truck should track straight without constant correction.
4. Brakes
- Pedal Feel: The pedal should be firm, not spongy or too hard.
- Stopping Power: Ensure the truck stops confidently and straight.
- Leaks: Check brake lines and calipers/wheel cylinders for fluid leaks.
5. Interior & Electrical
- Interior Condition: Assess the seats, dashboard, headliner, and door panels. While some wear is expected, excessive damage can indicate neglect.
- Gauges & Lights: Test all dashboard gauges, warning lights, headlights, taillights, turn signals, and brake lights.
- HVAC: Test the heater and air conditioning (if equipped).
- Power Accessories: If equipped, test power windows, locks, and radio.
6. Documentation
- Absolutely ensure the seller has a clear title in their name, and that the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the truck’s dash and frame.
- Service Records: While rare for older vehicles, any existing service records are a huge plus.
Pricing Expectations and Negotiation Tips
The price of a 1987 Chevy 4×4 can vary wildly based on condition, mileage, trim level, modifications, and even geographic location.
- Project Truck (Rust, Major Mechanical Issues): $2,000 – $6,000
- Fair Condition (Running/Driving, Needs Work/Minor Rust): $6,000 – $12,000
- Good Condition (Solid, Minor Flaws, Well-Maintained): $12,000 – $20,000+
- Excellent/Restored (Show Quality, Low Miles): $20,000 – $40,000+
Negotiation Strategies:
- Be Prepared: Have cash in hand or pre-approved financing. This gives you leverage.
- Point Out Flaws: Politely highlight any issues you found during your inspection. Use these as justifications for a lower offer.
- Know Your Value: Research similar trucks that have recently sold. Don’t rely solely on asking prices.
- Be Realistic, But Firm: Don’t expect a perfect truck for a bargain price. Make a fair offer based on your assessment and be prepared to walk away if the seller isn’t reasonable.
- Don’t Rush: Patience is key. The right truck at the right price will come along.
Common Challenges and Solutions
Owning a vintage truck, even one as robust as a Squarebody, comes with its own set of challenges.
- Rust Repair: This is the most common issue. Extensive rust requires professional bodywork, which can be costly. For minor rust, DIY repair is possible with welding and bodywork skills. Remember to factor this into your budget.
- Engine/Transmission Issues: While generally reliable, these trucks are old. Be prepared for potential engine rebuilds or transmission overhauls. Fortunately, parts are abundant, and many shops specialize in these powertrains. A full engine or transmission swap is also a viable, often cost-effective, solution.
- Finding Original Parts: While aftermarket support is strong, finding perfectly original or NOS (New Old Stock) parts can be challenging and expensive. Online forums, specialized Squarebody parts suppliers, and salvage yards are your best bet.
- Title Issues: As mentioned, a missing or unclear title can be a nightmare. In some states, you can apply for a "bonded title" or "salvage title," but it’s a lengthy and uncertain process. Unless you’re highly experienced with such procedures, it’s best to avoid trucks without clear titles.
Conclusion
The 1987 Chevy 4×4 represents the pinnacle of the Squarebody era, offering a blend of classic charm, rugged capability, and improved reliability thanks to its TBI engine. While finding one on Craigslist requires patience, diligence, and a keen eye for detail, the reward of owning such a piece of automotive history is immense. By understanding what makes these trucks special, how to effectively search Craigslist, what to inspect during a pre-purchase visit, and how to negotiate wisely, you’ll be well-equipped to drive away in your dream Squarebody. Remember, the journey of finding the right truck is part of the adventure, and with a bit of effort, you can secure a classic that will provide years of enjoyment, whether on the road, off the beaten path, or simply parked in your driveway, turning heads.
1987 Chevy 4×4 Estimated Price Guide (Craigslist Market)
| Condition Category | Description (Key Factors) | Estimated Price Range (USD) | Common Craigslist Keywords |
|---|---|---|---|
| Project Truck | Major rust, non-running, significant mechanical issues, missing parts, no title (risky). | $2,000 – $6,000 | Project, Parts, Non-runner, Needs TLC, Restoration |
| Fair Condition | Running & driving, visible rust (cab corners, rockers), some mechanical issues (leaks, worn suspension), worn interior. | $6,000 – $12,000 | Driver, Needs work, Some rust, Daily driver |
| Good Condition | Minimal rust, solid frame, running strong, decent interior, minor cosmetic flaws, well-maintained. | $12,000 – $20,000 | Clean, Solid, Well-maintained, Original, Garage kept |
| Excellent/Restored | Rust-free, professionally restored, low original miles, significant upgrades, show quality, meticulous maintenance records. | $20,000 – $40,000+ | Restored, Show truck, Collector, Low miles, Pristine |
Note: Prices are estimates and can vary based on engine (350 vs. 454), transmission (manual vs. auto), trim level (Silverado, Cheyenne), 2-door Blazer/Suburban vs. pickup, location, and specific modifications.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Why is the 1987 Chevy 4×4 so special compared to other Squarebodies?
A1: The 1987 model year was the last for the Squarebody generation, making it highly collectible. Crucially, it was the first year many models received Throttle Body Injection (TBI) for the 5.7L (350ci) V8 engine, offering improved reliability, better cold starts, and slightly better fuel efficiency compared to the earlier carbureted versions, while retaining the classic aesthetics.
Q2: What are the most common rust spots on a 1987 Chevy 4×4?
A2: The most common rust spots include the cab corners, rocker panels (below the doors), wheel wells, bed floor, frame rails (especially near body mounts and suspension), and the area around the windshield. Always check these areas thoroughly.
Q3: Can a 1987 Chevy 4×4 be a reliable daily driver?
A3: Yes, absolutely! With proper maintenance, a 1987 Chevy 4×4 can be a very reliable daily driver. The TBI system is generally robust, and the mechanicals are straightforward. However, like any vintage vehicle, it will require more consistent attention and maintenance than a modern car.
Q4: Are parts hard to find for a 1987 Squarebody?
A4: Generally, no. Thanks to their popularity and long production run, there is excellent aftermarket support for Squarebody trucks. Most mechanical, body, and interior parts are readily available from various online retailers and specialized vendors. Original, NOS (New Old Stock) parts can be harder to find and more expensive.
Q5: What’s better: an automatic or manual transmission for a 1987 Chevy 4×4?
A5: This largely comes down to personal preference and intended use. Manual transmissions (like the SM465 4-speed) are often considered more durable for heavy-duty use and offer more direct control, especially off-road. Automatics (like the TH400 or 700R4) provide convenience for daily driving. Both are robust and widely supported.
Q6: Should I get a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) for a Craigslist truck?
A6: If you’re serious about a truck and it’s within a reasonable distance, a pre-purchase inspection by a trusted mechanic (especially one familiar with older trucks) is highly recommended. It can uncover hidden issues that you might miss, saving you significant money and headaches down the line.
